I do understand how grounding and shielding works (I actually get paid for knowing stuff like that...) but it just seems "cleaner" to keep the high-voltage runs as short as possible. Some cable with braided shield is only 80% or so effective, but on further research I see that Whelen supplies cable with a foil shield and drain wire, much better stuff.
Frank, my (non)rotating beacon is currently on top of the fuselage. If two wingtip strobes meet the requirements, I'll just fabricate a cover plate and new gasket for the hole, and add the beacon to my collection of orphaned parts. If I go with the 3-light strobe supply behind the baggage compartement, I'll use the beacon power wire and just re-label the breaker.
Miles
Miles
“I envy no man that knows more than myself, but pity them that know less.”
— Thomas Browne
I am also installing the whelen comet-flash, I'm installing them in the cabin top and belly with the power supply in the fuselage, and in the near future tail nav lite assy. I chose that arrangement for that there was a previous cabin top strobe, as for effectiveness we will see.
Vic
N2609V
48 Ragwing
A Lanber 2097 12 gauge O/U Sporting
A happy go lucky Ruger Red label 20 ga
12N Aeroflex
Andover NJ http://www.sandhillaviation.com
Let me add that the wingtip strobes are not visible from the cockpit, even at night, except (as Frank mentioned) in fog or haze.
The belly and top fuselage mounted beacons can reflect back at you from the wingstruts, wheels, prop, etc. and can be a real distraction in ways which ordinary rotating beacons do not manifest. (However they are less expensive and simple replacements of rotating beacons, and the split-lenses .... red/white.... are less offensive if the red lens faces the struts, etc.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
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