Looking for intake gasket

[Pavewlc]

I needed to remove my left side intake manifold and now I'm working to get all the required seals/gaskets to put it back together. I think I have them all except the gasket that mates the intake manifold to the sump area; TCM P/N 24759. I've tried searching and cross refrencing but I'm unable to find this gasket online with the usual suspects (aircraft spruce, wagaero, univair ect).

Does anyone have a good source for this part? I know it's out there, just can't find it!

Thanks in advance,
Lee

[N2255D]

Part No. 649951 Supersedes 24759 and is avaiable at both sites below.

http://www.cessnaparts.com/parts.cfm

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?Z ... r_Aviation

[Pavewlc]

Perfect Walt! Thanks a million. I see you're in NC...my family and I are originally from Hickory; hope to move back there in 2010 after leave the Air Force. I'd love to put the plane on floats in Lake Hickory!

Thanks again,
Lee

[blueldr]

Lee,

You can't install the manifold gasket unless the manifold is off of the engine. If the manifold is off of the engine, go to any auto supply and get some gasket material and make your own gasket. It will only take a minute and cost pennies. Simply use the manifolds parting surface for the pattern. If this sort of job is foreign to the experience of the mechanic, perhaps he is in over his head.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Lee BL is right of course but his thrifty side is showing.

I'm perfectly capable of making my own gaskets but if the gaskets are available and don't cost $25 a piece like the gas tank gaskets, I prefer to pay for the convenience of someone else making them.

Your pocket book and experience should decide what's right for you.

[Pavewlc]

Yes, the manifold is off along with the middle cylinder and the left side exhaust. The mechanic is very capable and good guy, but a stickler when it comes to the correct parts and meeting the requirments.
Like a lot of annuals it's that balance between making sure it's all good to going a little overboard. On the one hand he caught the fact the engine serial number had been incorrectly copyied into ALL the log books since 1954!! Thank goodness I had the original build/run sheet form Continental with the original numbers from 1954. The other side is he made me put in the trim wheel and flap decals as specified by the Cessna part number not homemade stickers. It's tough the agure when you've got the books on your side.
So, I'll order the gasket for $1.50 (plus shipping) and we'll all be happy. Thanks for all the help, this is my third annual and I learn so much on everyone. I'm thankful the for the guys that let me "help" on the annual and don't charge me double for helping!

Cheers,
Lee

[blueldr]

I have a hunch that was an expensive annual.

[Pavewlc]

Well, the jury (or the check book) is still out. So far I've done all the panel pulling and replacing along with the other "routine" stuff. About all he's done is shine the flash light, compression checks, and inspect what I've done. It's a pretty good system for me so far:
1) I open up/remove panels
2) He inspects and makes a punch list
3) I order parts and fix as required (must be "by the book")
4) He inspects and signs off

The only real issues was the middle cylinder left side (sorry I don't know the number) had 60/80 with a very audible hissing out of the exhaust. We talked about the SB from TCM but he really wanted to pull the cylinder, so we did. Sure enough, the exhaust valve was not seated correctly and wouldn't. Looks like a worn guide valve so it's off at J+J air parts for repair. He warned me once he pulled the cylinder he would do "a very complete visual check of the inside of the engine"...I held my breath as the engine has 1500 hrs....and it all looked good. I have even more confidence in my airplane now.

I budget $1K for each annual and save money throughout the year to have set aside for March. I also figure $800 per year for unexpected repairs. While anything over this would cause a strain, it give me peace of mind to know I'm "prepared". I don't think this year will exceed those numbers.
I say all this really for new or semi-new aircraft owners like me who have no idea at first how much this is all going to be to own an airplane. The actual cost of plane ownership is something that's really not talked about much in the publications out there and most owners seem hesitant to talk about it too. I came to my numbers after trial and error (mostly error) over the past 2 1/2 years and continue to adjust.

The place I really save money, or worth it's weight in gold, is the association and forums. Each step of the way for every annual I consulted this area and fellow members. Where to get gaskets, seat rails, cylinder repair are all things new owners don't have a clue about but you can read it here.

Sorry for the long answer, but I know there's new folks like me who search for answers on many subjects here and I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Lee

[GAHorn]

Continental and Lycoming number their cylinders very differently.
On a Continental engine... from the view of the cockpit... The right, rearmost cylinder (the one closest to the co-pilot) is No. 1, and the one opposite it (closest to the pilot) is No. 2. Middle right is No. 3 and the one opposite (middle left) is No. 4. Right front cyl is No. 5, and Left front cyl. is No. 6.

Lycoming numbers from front of the engine. Front left (port) is No. 1, front right (starboard) is No. 2, and so on, and on.

[n2582d]

Lycoming numbers from front of the engine. Front left (port) is No. 1, front right (starboard) is No. 2, and so on, and on.

That is correct for the integral accessory drive models. The rest of the Lycoming engines use the front right cylinder as the No. 1 cylinder. You had me worried George. I just installed a pair of mags on a friend's Lycoming-powered 172. For a minute there I thought I timed them to the no. 2 cylinder. Fortunately, for guys with memories like mine Lycoming and Continental have the cylinder number cast into the case at the base of each cylinder.

[blueldr]

The easy way is to just look at the engine. The cylinders are staggared to align with the crank throws.If it's a Continental, the rearmost cylinder is the number one, on a Lycoming it is the frontmost cylinder, in the staggered order.

[GAHorn]

Lycoming numbers from front of the engine. Front left (port) is No. 1, front right (starboard) is No. 2, and so on, and on.

That is correct for the integral accessory drive models. The rest of the Lycoming engines use the front right cylinder as the No. 1 cylinder. You had me worried George. I just installed a pair of mags on a friend's Lycoming-powered 172. For a minute there I thought I timed them to the no. 2 cylinder. Fortunately, for guys with memories like mine Lycoming and Continental have the cylinder number cast into the case at the base of each cylinder.

Yeah, for a moment, while originally making that post I considered not addressing Lycoming at all and guess I got distracted from completing the description by my dementia... ... wh.... uh... what are we now talking about?? ? ?

[blueldr]

I admit that buying an intake gasket is the way to go if they're locally available. I would not keep my airplane grounded for a week waiting for one to come in the mail. Or would I buy one from "Spruce" since they seem to send even the smallest item in a $7.00 UPS package.