I just received my firewall blanket from Airtex and I am quite pleased with the quality. I have not installed one of these before and would appreciate any advice from those that have:
1. How did you secure it to the firewall? Glue or some other method?
2. How did you finish the holes where cables/controls pass through the firewall on the blanket side/inside?
3. Any gotchas?
Thanks, Bruce
Istalling Firewall Blanket
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Istalling Firewall Blanket
Bruce Shipp
former owners of N49CP, '53 C170B
former owners of N49CP, '53 C170B
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Re: Istalling Firewall Blanket
Bruce,
I've installed dozens of firewall blankets on various 100 series Cessnas. To get the best results requires patience.
So, to get the best results you'll need to remove or pull through (engine controls, electrical wiring, plumbing and etc) everything that goes through the firewall. Remove rudder pedal cover plates.
Originally, on most Cessna singles, the blanket had material on just the aft side and the fiberglass was glued or partially glued to the firewall to retain it in position. Be prepared to get itchy when removing the old stuff, and don't crawl in bed with the wife until after a good shower (unless you want her to really move). A tack rag works well for removing the glass from your skin. Panty hose work well too, but dont put them back in the drawer when your done.
I believe the Airtex blanket has the insulation sewn between the layers, if I remember correctly. I have found that glue is not necessary with these type blankets. You will need to cut holes at locations where control cables, wiring and etc go through the firewall. A gasket punch works best, but careful work with a razor blade can produce good results on the holes you need to add.
I have access to interior shops that can stitch around these holes I cut, and I would recommend that you find someone that can do that for you.
As for the blanket being held in place, there are usually enough existing/available screws, bulkhead fittings to hold it, and it should tuck nicely against the perimeter of the firewall around the fuselage skin to inhibit movement. It should extend below the rudder pedal plates enough that those screws that attach those plates to the firewall go through the blanket.
If you encounter an area where the blanket seems loose, like it might "fall away" from the firewall and cause problems, you can apply some some adhesive in localized areas. I prefer 1300L. This particular adhesive allows you to apply it to both surfaces and then stand back to let it dry. Then you can re-activate the glue in one localized area at a time with Toluene or MEK, just dampening a rag and lightly wiping both surfaces, then press and hold a few seconds.
Good luck and have fun!
I've installed dozens of firewall blankets on various 100 series Cessnas. To get the best results requires patience.
So, to get the best results you'll need to remove or pull through (engine controls, electrical wiring, plumbing and etc) everything that goes through the firewall. Remove rudder pedal cover plates.
Originally, on most Cessna singles, the blanket had material on just the aft side and the fiberglass was glued or partially glued to the firewall to retain it in position. Be prepared to get itchy when removing the old stuff, and don't crawl in bed with the wife until after a good shower (unless you want her to really move). A tack rag works well for removing the glass from your skin. Panty hose work well too, but dont put them back in the drawer when your done.
I believe the Airtex blanket has the insulation sewn between the layers, if I remember correctly. I have found that glue is not necessary with these type blankets. You will need to cut holes at locations where control cables, wiring and etc go through the firewall. A gasket punch works best, but careful work with a razor blade can produce good results on the holes you need to add.
I have access to interior shops that can stitch around these holes I cut, and I would recommend that you find someone that can do that for you.
As for the blanket being held in place, there are usually enough existing/available screws, bulkhead fittings to hold it, and it should tuck nicely against the perimeter of the firewall around the fuselage skin to inhibit movement. It should extend below the rudder pedal plates enough that those screws that attach those plates to the firewall go through the blanket.
If you encounter an area where the blanket seems loose, like it might "fall away" from the firewall and cause problems, you can apply some some adhesive in localized areas. I prefer 1300L. This particular adhesive allows you to apply it to both surfaces and then stand back to let it dry. Then you can re-activate the glue in one localized area at a time with Toluene or MEK, just dampening a rag and lightly wiping both surfaces, then press and hold a few seconds.
Good luck and have fun!
Del Lehmann
Mena, Arkansas
Mena, Arkansas
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Re: Installing Firewall Blanket
What Dell said and some hole's can use the brass grommets like for a tarp.
Tim
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- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2002 11:31 pm
Re: Istalling Firewall Blanket
Thanks, Del. This is exactly the info I was looking for. I have already had the pleasure of removing the old blanket. I had a small brush for my shop-vac that had the bristles worn down to almost nothing. It worked great at cleaning the remnants of the fiberglass off the firewall and kept the dust down.
I spoke with the folks at Airtex and they recommended contact cement, but I hate that idea for the sake of the next poor soul that has to go through what I just did. I think the bottom will stay in place just fine between the pedal covers, the lip under the air duct (’53 model) and the side panels. The top may need some love around the edges but I had hoped the stuff through the panels would work to hold it as you suggested. We’ll keep you posted on the progress.
Bruce
I spoke with the folks at Airtex and they recommended contact cement, but I hate that idea for the sake of the next poor soul that has to go through what I just did. I think the bottom will stay in place just fine between the pedal covers, the lip under the air duct (’53 model) and the side panels. The top may need some love around the edges but I had hoped the stuff through the panels would work to hold it as you suggested. We’ll keep you posted on the progress.
Bruce
Bruce Shipp
former owners of N49CP, '53 C170B
former owners of N49CP, '53 C170B
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