Bushwheel tailwheel

[Robert Eilers]

I have the Bushwheel tailwheel ABI-3224A - standard TW assembly. I found it necessary to replace the tire. After removing the four wheel half bolts I am unable to separate the wheel halfs - I hate to beat on anything. Is there someone with the Bushwheel tailwheel that can tell me if I am over looking something (I mean they really coudn't screw together could they?)

[johnsunday]

Robert,

I have the Alaska bushwheel, but since I haven't checked the board lately, you've probably already figured out how to take it apart. But, if not...

The two wheel halves are the normal Scott 3200 wheel. There's a thick plastic disk that separates the two halves and makes the wheel assembly wider. One half of the Scott wheel has a half-cylinder shaped rubber plug glued into the valve stem cutout. Don't remove that plug once you get the wheel apart. During factory assembly they probably use a weak adhesive to hold the wheel together. My recommendation would be to try to heat the wheel just a little, either in a preheated oven, use a hairdryer, or a heat gun. I would bet that would loosen the bond. My next recommendation would be to hit it a couple of times with a rubber hammer and see if that doesn't do the trick.

Let me know how it comes, or came out.

John
N2786C,'54 B Ole beat up Alaskan Bush Plane

[GAHorn]

I offer the following technique.... with GREAT CAUTION. After you have LOOSENED the wheel-bolts .... but LEAVE THE NUTS INSTALLED with at least two threads engaged..... GENTLY apply low-pressure air (no more than 15 psi) to the tire stem. It will separate the wheels.

[Robert Eilers]

Geat idea George? Seem obvious now that you describe it.

[Robert Eilers]

George your suggestion worked well. However, the air pressure required to separate the wheels was greater than I had expected. When the wheels finally did separate there was a BANG that could be heard across the airport - scared the living day lights out of me. Turns out the manufacturer (Bushwheel) glued a what appears to be a felt disc between the wheel halfs.

[wingnut]

We find George's technique the most usefull compared to other "primitive Pete" methods. It's perfectly safe when you have a few threads still engaged. You can't imagine the tensile strength of those bolts. I think the wheel halves would disinegrate, before the bolt/nut would fail.

[Robert Eilers]

Wingnut - would you happen to know the recommended torque for the Bushwheel tailwheel bolts? I can't find anything specific to Bushwheel so I am using the 90 inch pound torque recommended for the Scott.

[wingnut]

I am not familiar enough with it to answer your question regarding torque. I understand (just from reading this thread) there is possibly a plastic, or felt?, spacer between the wheel halves, so this may effect what the torque would normally be with standard halves bolted directly together. Sorry, I can't answer your question. I would find the correct torque value before returning to service.

[Robert Eilers]

I finally located a techinical service phone number for Bushwheel and learned the torque value is in fact 90 inch pounds. I also learned Bushwheel previously painted the inside of the wheel halfs and apparently when the felt spacer was applied the paint was still tacky enough to adhere the wheel halfs together. Bushwheel has changed their methods and now does not paint in the inside of the wheel halfs avoiding the problem of wheel halfs sticking together. Responsive folks once I figures out how to talk to them.