F&M Oil filter adapter AND THREAD DRIFT-LOL

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

I made a 1" square socket out of common square tubing. Welded an old socket to one end and had to relieve the inside of the square slightly to make it fit.



Worth the effort to make even if you don't have a filter adapter because it can be used to remove the stock screen as well.

[4583C]

Miles
[/quote]

Something like this? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ve+adapter You still have to adapt to the 3/4" male lug. An 8- or 12-point socket?

Yes that is what I used... turned it with a 3/4" crowsfoot on the torque wrench.

BTW, Have you poured any oil into your engine yet? The old adage is if a (insert engine make/model of choice) isn't leaking oil, then there isn't any in it.
You may be on to something there!
I was intending to follow Bruce's example but didn't think the 1" tubing I had on hand was heavy enough.

[cessna170bdriver]

I'm currently running the F&M filter adapter on my O-300A. I have also used the Cessna filter adapter in the past. (Sorry, but I don't have the part number handy.)

Afer running both types, quite frankly I think I like the Cessna filter adapter better. (YMMV of course!) It uses a jam nut on the adapter against the sump which makes it easier to hold the adapter in the correct orientation while torquing. The large hex jam nut on the Cessna adapter is easier to torque than the smaller square aluminum boss on the F&M. In my experience, the jam nut on the Cessna adapter is also much less likely to allow the adapter to loosen at the sump when removing the filter, a likely source of leaks. I end up having to re-torque the F&M about every other time I change the oil, a real PITA. Also, the Cessna filter has only one seal, an o-ring under the jam nut, as opposed to the crush washer and fiber seal on the F&M. One positive thing about the F&M (IMHO) is that you get a new bypass valve every time you change the filter.

I bought the Cessna adapter originally because that was the only approved filter that I knew of at the time (about 1990). As I recall, that adapter was about the same number of $ back then that the F&M is now. I haven't priced a Cessna adapter lately, but if you were now choosing between the two, I would imagine the price difference may make the F&M worth dealing with. In the meantime, I still have a servicable Cessna adapter...

Miles

Well, here it is 3 days before leaving on a 2-week trip, and my frappin' F&M adapter is leaking AGAIN! I must be getting better, as this time it lasted until the third filter change before leaking on me this time. As careful as I was in removing the filter, the adapter did move a bit relative to the case and that was enough. Judging from the amount of oil on the filter and ground after running the engine 1 minute after oil presssure came up, I think full fuel would have outlasted the oil supply.

To hedge my bets, I'm immediately going to see if F&M can overnight the fiber gasket and -28 crush washer (I'm out ), but before I go through the mess of pulling the adapter off to replace the gaskets, I'm going to re-torque and see if that works. I'll stick with the F&M for the short term, but after three rounds of gasket replacement and re-torque, I'm seriously considering going back to the Cessna adapter that I still have, which gave me NO PROBLEM in 1000 hours of use; I just have to find a part number for the o-ring...

[GAHorn]

Miles, your recently ovhl'd engine likely had clean threads on the accy case...but just to be sure... As FM to also send you their cleanout tool. If there is ANY crud, carbon, damaged threads in the case, the FM Adaptor will not give the proper torque and may leak.

[cessna170bdriver]

By my reckoning, it's after 10am in Borger Texas, and F&M isn't answering their phone. Does anyone have the size and/or part number and a source for the o-ring used on the Cessna adapter?

[cessna170bdriver]

Well, F&M finally answered the phone, and I have the gaskets on their way overnight ($10 for parts, $20 for shipping, ). If the re-torque stops the leak without new gaskets, I'm gonna bring 'em with me and let George demonstrate their proper installation at the convention maintenance forum. George, bring your tools. I'll bring a camera...

Anyone see why this socket wouldn't work for torquing the adapter? Is IS 1", isn't it?

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

I don't see any reason it wouldn't work after the temperature gauge adapter is removed. I made my own by welding a 1" ID square tube to a socket. You could also use a 1" crows foot if you figure the torque for the offset. A socket is the easiest however.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Don't know if this is available in store but it's worth looking into for $12 for a whole set rather than $32 for one socket you will use once every few years.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... blockType=

[cessna170bdriver]

Don't know if this is available in store but it's worth looking into for $12 for a whole set rather than $32 for one socket you will use once every few years.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... blockType=

Bruce,
That set appears to be for hex fasteners; the filter adapter requires a square or double-square (8-point) socket. At the rate I'm going, I'll need to re-torque the adapter about once every year. Unfortunately, $nap-On is the only provider of the requisite tool I've found so far. I'll do it with a crow's foot one more time, but it's a real PITA to keep it on the adapter nut with one hand while pulling the wrench to 65 ft-lbs with the other.

Another thought: Make me up a tool like yours in trade for all those crosswind landing gear parts...

[GAHorn]

Well, F&M finally answered the phone, and I have the gaskets on their way overnight ($10 for parts, $20 for shipping, ). If the re-torque stops the leak without new gaskets, I'm gonna bring 'em with me and let George demonstrate their proper installation at the convention maintenance forum. George, bring your tools. I'll bring a camera...

Anyone see why this socket wouldn't work for torquing the adapter? Is IS 1", isn't it?

With all the flying you'll do before BEH, you should plan on hiring the local shop to do an oil change, and while the oil is drained...they can replace the gaskets for you.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Another thought: Make me up a tool like yours in trade for all those crosswind landing gear parts...

You might have a deal there if you don't acquire one let me know.

As for the Sears set the search criteria was for 8 point sockets which would be square. I couldn't find it is the description but if you look close at the blown up picture I thought they did indeed look square.

[cessna170bdriver]

If the re-torque stops the leak without new gaskets, I'm gonna bring 'em with me and let George demonstrate their proper installation at the convention maintenance forum. George, bring your tools. I'll bring a camera...

With all the flying you'll do before BEH, you should plan on hiring the local shop to do an oil change, and while the oil is drained...they can replace the gaskets for you.

Now that would defeat the educational purposes of the forum, wouldn't it? Don't worry though, you're off the hook. Per F&M's advice, I retorqued the adapter in place this evening and got the leak slowed way down, but the copper crush washer is still seeping a bit too much for my comfort. The new gasket and washer should be here tomorrow (Wednesday) so I'll get 'em changed out before I leave.

[cessna170bdriver]

Another thought: Make me up a tool like yours in trade for all those crosswind landing gear parts...

You might have a deal there if you don't acquire one let me know.

As for the Sears set the search criteria was for 8 point sockets which would be square. I couldn't find it is the description but if you look close at the blown up picture I thought they did indeed look square.

I'm not going to buy a tool before returning from Convention, so if you can whip one up, I'll take it. I tried a 1" crows foot, but my JASCO alternator would have to come off for it to work. My hangar neighbor has a 1-1/4" 12-point that is a little loose, but was able to withstand the 65 ft-lb torque without turning on the nut, though it did leave enough of a mark that I wouldn't want to do it on a regular basis.

For whatever reason, my computer at home won't enlarge the Sears socket set, but from what I can see they still look like 6-point. I'll take another look on my somewhat more modern computer at work.

[GAHorn]

.... I tried a 1" crows foot, but my JASCO alternator would have to come off for it to work. ....

Thanks for number 7 on the "reasons to keep your generator" list.

[cessna170bdriver]

.... I tried a 1" crows foot, but my JASCO alternator would have to come off for it to work. ....

Thanks for number 7 on the "reasons to keep your generator" list.

I know that's a joke, George, but even with the alternator removed, it's still fairly difficult to keep a crow's foot on that square lug while torquing the adapter. Using the socket was a piece of cake, and the only thing that has to be removed is the oil temp sender. At the risk of more thread drift (you started it ), I figure there must be good reasons new airplanes and cars don't come with generators anymore...