Rudder pedal bearings

[IdahoPilot]

Hey everyone, Took out our master cylinders and serviced them, and replaced our rudder return springs. While we were at it, decided to replace the bearings that attach pedals to airframe as they were a little worn.

We got them installed, but now the pedals do not move nearly as freely. And will not return all the way to neutral. Anyone have any advice on what we can do to fix this. Or will the aerodynamic loads help bring it to neutral? Thanks

Idaho Pilot

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Of course the air pressure will attempt to center the rudder to a degree. Hard to say without being there if your pedals are do stiff but I's suspect new bearings to be a bit stiffer than 60 year old bearings.

[wingnut]

The bearings have to be oriented correctly. The inboard bearings (the ones with 2 holes) have a small hole and a large hole. Iffin you get the small hole on the large pipe......well???? Seriously, you probably got one or more installed backwards

[IdahoPilot]

I measured the pipes, and found the farthest forward pipe slightly larger. Can someone ensure the front pipe is the larger of the two.

[wingnut]

I think that would depend on whether you're on the pilot or copilot side No Joke, and you'll still need to look at the bearing blocks, and "insure" which hole is the smaller of the two.

You might have even turned one of the bearing blocks backwards on itself (small end on big end??? , which would do the same thing (make the rudder pedals stiff).

Look at the blocks closely. The big blocks with the 2 holes that capture both "pipes"; the holes are 2 different sizes. And, the "pipes" are 2 different sizes at the locations where those bearing block go. You won't need anyone on the internet to confirm that .

Don't worry about it much. Just study it, and fix it. I've done that screw up a couple times, even after I knew what I'm telling you. When you got yer body all form-to-fit in there, sometimes shiat gets discombobulated

This is the reason the new bearing blocks come from Cessna with a BIG zip-tie, connecting the bearings in thier respective orientation (so you will know which end is which). I suspect thats the reason. Maybe they didn't want them to get separated

[IdahoPilot]

I checked the bearings. They are in correctly. Larger hole forward on both. And I marked the bearings with a sharpie on the ends before taking off ziptie. Any ideas on torque of them?

[wingnut]

Something(s) is backward, or something(s) is bent, or something(s) else is wrong. I think the former.

[n2582d]

I checked the bearings. They are in correctly. Larger hole forward on both.... .

I'm not sure if you mean larger hole forward on both sets of two-hole bearings or larger hole forward on top and bottom half of the left two-hole bearing. If you mean larger hole forward on both sets of bearings that would be the reason for the binding. The right set (co-pilot side) should have the small hole forward as illustrated below.

Rudder bar.jpg

Any ideas on torque of them?

20-25 in./lbs. plus the torque necessary to overcome the friction of the locknut. In other words, tight but not too tight. You might consider a large area washer (AN970-3) under the head of the bolt as you are clamping down on plastic.

[hilltop170]

Did you use the correct rudder return springs and put them in correctly? Just a thought.

[IdahoPilot]

Fixed. Thanks guys. We had them torqued to far and the left inboard bearing was backwards. Returning much better now.

[GAHorn]

Fixed. Thanks guys. We had them torqued to far and the left inboard bearing was backwards. Returning much better now.

Ahhhhh....!! The sound of satisfaction that the Forums are performing!

[falco]

Yes they are cheap. Best deal in airplane parts I've ever seen. What surprised me when I got them they are now made of plastic.

I overhauled mine a few years ago. Took it all out and cleaned and painted everything. Splurged on new hardware. Cleaned out all the grime underneath. And then covered all that beautiful work with those tired old aluminum covers... Fun work though. On your elbows under the instrument panel fussing about with AN3 hardware behind the spring loaded rudder pedals where there is never enough light and it's too close to really focus...

The plastic bushings work great, it took a most of the play out of the pedals and they seem pretty low friction. I also swapped the pedals left and right- the holes in the right side set were rounder and that took some of the slop out of the brakes too. It was well worth the effort.