push rod tubes

[dpowell]

Will do. Thanks

[170C]

Aryana, does the installation of these spring push rod tubes require any modification of the upper cylinders in order for them to properly fit? You mentioned that they are coming out with stronger springs. Does this mean that the current springs have failed, in some cases, to stop leaks? Is that price of $87.98 per cylinder or is it $175.96 per cylinder?

Thanks

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

I saw some seepage on the rod tube rubbers and moved the clamps a bit to see if that would help. Well it is leaking oilway more than ever before. 30-40 min flight and there were probably 20 or 30 drip spots on the right side and bottom of cowling. Could the clamp adjustment do this much in you guys opinion? Does the timing adjustment have anything to do with it? Are the rubbers replaceable by sliding the jugs back or do you guys know do the jugs have to come off to replace the seal at the bottom of the jug?

Yes moving the clamp can open a flood gate. I suggest putting it back.

Timing the engine can have nothing to do with a pushrod tube leak.

Yes you can replace the rubbers by sliding the jugs back and not removing the piston from the cylinder but you must also remove the push rod as well which adds extra complexity to the job which is not trivial to begin with. Having said that, if you know how to properly move the cylinder back, and reinstall it, you should have the know how to remove and reinstall the pushrod.

[dpowell]

Got the real gasket tubes installed and have a few leaking. Used a very small amount of rtv on the outboard end as called for. Maybe should have used a more liberal amount and covered the entire gasket surface?? Anywho, found that I also have quite a bit of leakage around the jug to case flange. Are these actually packings as called for in the IPM or have they been upgraded to o-rings and does the jug need to come completely off to replace or are packings cut (at the top), will o-rings stretch over the jug etc. Thoughts/wisdom anyone. Thanks

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

The o-ring is the packing. Never saw anything else. Yes the jugg must come off but off course you don't have to pull the piston from the cylinder. Only far enough to remove the pin.

Sometimes we get way to fanatical about having a completely dry engine. Then we are mad because the hardware rusts.

It would have to be dripping quarts of oil before I pulled the cylinder for just this.

[dpowell]

It appears that way,but, will know more tomorrow. Just cleaned it up and will run up tomorrow. It is not a severe leak,however after a 4 hr flight on saturday the inside lower surface of the cowling was completely covered,there was not a noticeable amount gone from the dip stick. I despise oil leaks on anything, but, it does keep the bottom from rusting! Did I mention that some of the oil appears to be coming from around some of the hold-down bolts and nuts. I think that I read somewhere that the real gaskets are reusable. Anyone had experience with using them after having been torqued down. It has 4 .5 hrs since installation.

[GAHorn]

Engine oil leaks are like Blood and spilled-gasoline.....a smidgeon looks like gallons.

The REAL silicone gaskets are reuseable.

[dpowell]

Thanks all. About to do the run-up.

[n3833v]

I have been told if a Continental doesn't leak oil, there is none in it.
I also don't like leaks.
John

[GAHorn]

Engine oil leaks are like Blood and spilled-gasoline.....a smidgeon looks like gallons.

The REAL silicone gaskets are reuseable.

This comment made earlier was in reference only to the ROCKER COVER gaskets made of silicone (also sometimes referred to as EPDM).

[dpowell]

Well,
Another run-up today showed the #3 jug leaking a small stream from the stud/ thru-bolt at the 6 & 7 o'clock position and one tube leaking on the inboard side. I actually had 3 or 4 leaking on the inboard side but I twisted the tube a bit and 3 of them stopped leaking. May have some weeping on the outboard side of several tubes but nothing serious. The real gasket instructions show a small bead of rtv on the outboard side gasket. I think as stated above a bit more rtv is called for.

[canav8]

Did you use their spring compressor to install the tubes or did you use safety wire to compress the springs? The inboard leaking does sometimes happen, but they will have a fix for that soon with stronger springs.

No harm in using too much RTV at the outboard end as you can wipe away the excess while its still wet. As long as there are no big globs exposed to the internals of the rocker box, that's all that is important. Most of the excess will squish out on the external side so that doesn't even matter.

Jiggle those inboard ends until they fully expand and you'll lick those leaks

Just FYI, using safety wire to compress the springs voids the warranty on them. Doug

[dpowell]

Too long for a reply but I work 7 on / off. Yep bought the tool and used it. The lifter cover adapters have alot of slack when placed over the cover. As I was getting leakage from the inboard end, I figure that was partly to blame. Also some outboard leakage. After reinstalling with a bit more rtv it should seal better. Will know tomorrow.

[dpowell]

All tubes seem to be sealed. Now, whats next?