Oil Seal for Generator

JMACFLY · Post by **JMACFLY** » Tue May 11, 2004 2:09 am

We have a leaking generator oil seal. Where can we get a seal, part #352068 ? Modified Aircraft Accessories Inc of Brooks,KY rebuilt my Delco Remy generator in 1998. There is no phone number on the yellow tag, and I cant find them through Yahoo. Thanx for the help

Post by **GAHorn** » Tue May 11, 2004 3:01 am

AeroTech in Louisville, Ky can supply the correct seal.

http://www.aerotechlou.com/

Aerotech of Louisville
2209 Watterson Trail
Louisville, Kentucky 40299
Phone: 502-263-7090 (local)
Toll Free: 1-800-634-0190
Fax: 502-263-7094

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Tue May 11, 2004 6:00 pm

I don't know what Aerotech gets for their seals,but if they're like most aircraft outfits it's a bunch! For example, several years ago I bought a "fuel screen kit" for the fuel pump in my ragwing, from Aero Accessories of North Carolina. It consisted of a small screen (about 1-1/2" diameter),a gasket,a bolt,and a washer-- the price was $46! Plus shipping!
You can measure (with a micrometer or calipers) the ID,OD, & thickness of the seal, and look it up in a seal & bearing catalog. I got a starter-clutch seal & a starter-armature seal as well as an alternator seal at my local NAPA store-- the average price was less than 5 busks. They handle Chicago Rawhide seals as well as their own NAPA brand which I think are probably made by C/R.
My continental parts book sez the 352068 seal is for a 0.968" diameter shaft. Now all you need is the ID & depth of the cavity it fits in, and then it's off to NAPA Airmotive!

Eric

N170CT · Post by **N170CT** » Wed May 12, 2004 9:50 pm

If anybody comes up with or remembers the NAPA part number for a generator seal, it would be very kind of them to post it here.
My generator is leaking just enough oil to be a nusiance.

echild · Post by **echild** » Thu May 13, 2004 7:35 pm

I got a complete rebuild kit from Fresno Airparts. Consisted of brushes, seals and brngs. Cost was $27.50. They ship COD unless you pay them in advance. No credit cards. I believe these are surplus kits.

Everett
N49EC

Post by **GAHorn** » Thu May 13, 2004 10:57 pm

Why mess with an automotive part when the genuine item (PN 352068) is available for about $5. CAll El RENO 405-262-2387.
(But remember my article about replacing that gen mount gasket PN 652072 in it's entirety. Don't you dare cut it. And the tach drive seal. Don't forget that. (PN 642714)

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Fri May 14, 2004 5:38 am

George, I cut my gen gasket quite some time ago. No problem.

Eric

Post by **GAHorn** » Fri May 14, 2004 4:16 pm

And you used what data to support the alteration of the part?

I don't believe a meticulous mechanic would do that (no inference intended, Eric.) I'm just trying to prevent someone from busting their A.. without at least knowing the possible consequences of their actions.

I leave it to anyone who wishes to gamble on the short cut, but I recommend reading the message I posted about the 34th Convention trip, or
http://globalair.com/discussions/george ... et+Article

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Fri May 14, 2004 4:43 pm

Why, I used the "owner-produced part" hole card-- kinda like having a roofer's card in the building-construction industry,it "covers everything". (get it?)

Post by **GAHorn** » Fri May 14, 2004 8:17 pm

Ha!

Yeah, I get it!

(But seriously, this event really made an impression on me. I had no idea from the cockpit I was pumping 6 qts an hour overboard, and would not have known until the pressure went to zero and/or the engine siezed.)
On a further note, and just for clarification, I believe an "owner produced" part does not allow for "owner invented" parts. If one is reproducing a part on one's airplane, one is supposed to "reverse engineer" it and reproduce it's function exactly. The original gasket was designed by TCM to cover the tach-drive housing surface and the generator mating surface in one piece for a specific reason. It wasn't a production expediency. (In fact, if they'd made it in two pieces not only would it make assembly simpler, but they'd have the advantage of doubling the number of gaskets they could sell you for this operation.)
Next time it's convenient for you, I'd surely advise you to consider replacing that gasket in it's entirety. When it finally decides to go, 6 qts per hour is pretty fast.

N1478D · Post by **N1478D** » Sat May 15, 2004 12:50 am

To help prevent anybody else from making this same mistake, here is one I would rather not be sharing.

There was a small oil leak when I re-installed the generator, it was installed dry. A mechanic came by the hangar and asked what I was working on and offered the advice that anytime an appliance is below the oil line, like our generators are, he uses TiteSeal ( also known as peanut butter). Went and bought myself some TiteSeal and was determined not to have an oil leak, got a new gasket and applied TiteSeal to both sides of the gasket and re-installed the generator. Got the annual signed off and flew to work, etc for about 4.5 hours in the days leading up to the Petit Jean FlyIn. Everything was fine I thought, and no oil leaks. The round trip to Petit Jean, Gastons & other side trips accounted for another 9.5 hours. Checking the oil at Petit Jean in preparation for the return flight to Texas showed the oil to be black. I had been worried about that because some of the TiteSeal had been squeezed out and could be seen at the Generator/Accessory case joint. If it was there, it was also probably squeezed out on the inner joint! Planned, and did, drained the oil immediately upon landing at home. THE PROBLEM was shiny metal all over the oil screen. Enough of the TiteSeal got in to the engine and apparently damaged one or more bearings. I made the stupid assumption that since it was for aviation use, if it did get inside the engine it would not be a major problem. That was a very wrong assumption. Please do not allow this to happen to you.

Post by **GAHorn** » Sat May 15, 2004 3:58 pm

Tite Seal is intended for fittings but some people use it for gaskets. A better gasket sealant in my opinion is Permatex Aviaton 1 (hardening) or 2 (non-hardening).
In either case, it's unlikely that Tite Seal caused any bearing failure. Any gasket sealant in that area which could work loose would have gone into the sump, and either settled out or picked up by oil pump suction. Any picked up would be caught by the screen and found there, or dissolved and diluted with oil. In either case, it wouldn't have caused bearing failure.
Look at the particles for color. Yellow, brass, or copper would be bushing/bearing material (or valve guide.) Shiney aluminum color may be bearings, or they may be steel/iron/aluminum, etc. See if a magnet will pick it up to detect ferrous (bad news). But sometimes carbon can look like metal.
Place a piece of it on an anvil and hit it with a hammer. If it flattens out it's metal. If it shatters, or if you can break it with a fingernail, it's merely carbon.
In any case, the amount of metal is as important as the type. Aluminum can be a piston. An occasional sliver of bearing/bushing is not always bad news unless it continues or increases but large amounts of it is bad news. Ferrous is bad.

Post by **Bruce Fenstermacher** » Sun May 16, 2004 8:17 pm

Here are several numbers for seals I bought specifically for the generator

CR 9303 USA - came in the engine gasket/seal set from Superior for my engine rebuilt. This is the one I'm using and seems to work fine.

CR 9613 USA - sent from Hill Cessna when I ordered part number 352068. This seal LOOKS like seal CR 9303 USA but I couldn't guarantee it.

14931 T8 C/R - sent from Hill Cessna when I ordered part number 352068. The inside and outside dimentions LOOK the same as seal CR 9613 USA but its thickness is slightly thicker and the ruber seal is shielded on both sides. The seal itself is also slightly thicker. I believe this seal will work but I could not guarantee it.

And yes you read right. I placed one order for 2 seals part number 3520068 from Hill Cessna and recieved 2 different seals both that i think will work.

n2582d · Post by **n2582d** » Mon Jul 29, 2013 4:46 am

Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:Here are several numbers for seals I bought specifically for the generator

CR 9303 USA - came in the engine gasket/seal set from Superior for my engine rebuilt. This is the one I'm using and seems to work fine.

CR 9613 USA - sent from Hill Cessna when I ordered part number 352068. This seal LOOKS like seal CR 9303 USA but I couldn't guarantee it.

14931 T8 C/R - sent from Hill Cessna when I ordered part number 352068. The inside and outside dimentions LOOK the same as seal CR 9613 USA but its thickness is slightly thicker and the ruber seal is shielded on both sides. The seal itself is also slightly thicker. I believe this seal will work but I could not guarantee it.

And yes you read right. I placed one order for 2 seals part number 3520068 from Hill Cessna and recieved 2 different seals both that i think will work.

In the Timken Seal Catalog the Continental generator seal (p/n 352068) is cross-referenced as Timken p/n 451583. This p/n is also given as a cross-reference for the latter two CR numbers you listed (CR 9613 and 14931 T8 C/R). The CR 9303 number however crosses to a Timken number which is for a slightly smaller shaft size --.937" vs. the .968" of the Delco-Remy generator shaft. Timken seal 451583 is also available with a Viton seal -- p/n 451583V.

Post by **GAHorn** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 2:46 am

The seal (item 2 in the illustration below) is available from Spruce (352068) for $11, as is all the other attaching parts/seals/bushings/etc.
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/ ... ckkey=3525

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