Push rod tube leak

logsdon · Post by **logsdon** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 10:55 pm

I recently installed the Real Gasket push rod tubes on my 145 hoping that they would cure my leaky push rod tubes for good. Still, two of the tubes leak a little at the crankcase end. I assume the seal is not completely seated on the lifter cover. I have compressed the spring and turned the adaptor and seal around a few times to try and seat it but a slow drip persists. Has anyone had the same problem?

doakes · Post by **doakes** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 12:48 am

I installed them on my airplane and had simular problem.
I called the manufacture, he gave me new gaskets and suggestion that I clean them again, I thought that I had cleaned up real good, but at his suggestion I recleaned them and installed new and none has leaked since.
Dave

william halford · Post by **william halford** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:03 am

We are tired of all the oil leaks on our D model engine. We have decided to replace all push rod tubes with the new inproved Real Gasket style.

The spring compressor tool sells for $24.00 Is this a must to have ?????? 170mb

Dave Clark · Post by **Dave Clark** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 11:02 am

Not a must but worth every penny. Beside eliminating a lot of frustration it'll save you possibly damaging those new expensive parts.

william halford · Post by **william halford** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 7:19 am

That is what I figure. If it makes the job easier and prevents damaging the tubes it is worth buying Thanks a heap...170mb

Post by **GAHorn** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 3:11 pm

A cheap trick on those type springs is to use safety wire through the length of the compression spring, and then twist the safety wire to compress the spring. Placing the spring into position, and then clipping the wire will release the spring into position.
But the thing to do if you're gonna do 'em all, is buy the tool to save time. Maybe some of you guys could loan/rent the tool to each other?

Dave Clark · Post by **Dave Clark** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 12:06 am

If the borrower is to pay freight both ways he might better off just to buy the tool and get it in the freight charge for all the parts. That said, a PM to me will work if you want to borrow mine.

william halford · Post by **william halford** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:03 am

I agree by the time we pay shipment . We just as well buy one. I do thank you for the offer.

But i will say that we are located at the West Memphis Ar airport just across the bridge from Mem Tn, If anybody is in that area feel free to contact Bill Halford or Gary Hillis to borrow it..170mb

Walker · Post by **Walker** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:01 pm

Have you examined the lifter blocks to see if they are still round? Sometimes those get flattened when somebody hammers on them to break them loose.

AR Dave · Post by **AR Dave** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 5:25 am

Another Arkansawer?

wa4jr · Post by **wa4jr** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 4:20 am

Some of my new tubes seep a bit as well. Not enough to worry about right now. Yes, the spring compressor tool is a good value and I would say a must-have. The tool can be used for other jobs around the shop and is well made. I am convinced that I must have scratched or slightly damaged one or more of the lower end gaskets during installation. Even with the tool, installing these new pushrod tubes with the intake and exhaust plumbing in place is a about like solving Rubik's Cube. I like the new pushrod tubes, but next time I put a set on, I will wait until annual time when the intake and exhaust tubes are dropped down for yet another fixy fixy.

N170BP · Post by **N170BP** » Thu Nov 13, 2003 6:59 am

I just got done installing one cylinder's worth of pushrod
tube replacement (Real Gasket kit). I bought the spring
compressor, and it made childs-play out of the install. I
did drop the exhaust (left side) but left the intake plumbing
in place (no problems).

I'm going to let the copper silicone sealant set up overnight
and fire it up tomorrow (leak test + heat cycle, then tighten
everything back up again). I hope my oil leak disappears for
good.

I like the Real Gaskets pushrod tube kit (good quality, easy to
install, nice fit). If I ever have to top or overhaul my engine,
I think I would spring for kits for the other 5 cylinders. Continental
finally got it right with the O-470 / O-520 series engines when it
came to pushrod tube design (which is what this retro-fit Real Gaskets
kit is based upon).

Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP

william halford · Post by **william halford** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 8:02 am

Bela, I am glad to hear that. So you do not have to pull the cylinders to install the new tubes. Are the old tubes just cut off after the push rod removed ??? I assume the STC explains these procedures. 170mb :? :?

N170BP · Post by **N170BP** » Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:02 pm

william halford wrote:Bela, I am glad to hear that. So you do not have to pull the cylinders to install the new tubes. Are the old tubes just cut off after the push rod removed ??? I assume the STC explains these procedures. 170mb

That's right. I used a dremel tool with a fiber cut-off wheel to cut the
old tubes in half. I cut a slot in in the tube, grabbed it with
vice grips and twisted it 180 degrees, and cut another slot
on the other side. Also used the vice grip to collapse the outer
ends (where they go into the cylinder) to take the old tubes out
as that was a tight fit. The tubes just fall out at the case end.

The STC comes with detailed instructions and a diagram of what
the assembled replacement tube should look like.

Bela P. Havasreti
1954 C-170B N170BP

wa4jr · Post by **wa4jr** » Sat Nov 15, 2003 1:04 am

Don't forget that the pushrods have to come out as well. One would think that it is obvious and of course the instructions say to do it, but I could see someone forgetting and then cutting into the rod along with the tube

One thing to look out for is the possibilty of the pushrod not locating properly in the lifter when you put things back together. The STC does not say anything about it, but I have heard here on the forum of some folks taking the pushrods out to do the "rope trick" and then when they put the pushrods back in they don't quite seat correctly...something gets turned around. Then when the prop is moved...CRUNCH! I just got lucky or either I have the lifters with the "retainer" as I did not worry too much about the rods going back in...they just seemed to locate on their own.