Bellcrank--Rudder

[PatM]

This is a first time post. I bought my '52 170-B in 2003 ( #20272) and enjoy it , as does my wife Carol.I went to the field Oshawa Ontario (CYOO) Sunday night and upon walkaround found that the rudder with full deflection to the right and up elevator scraped together-- wearing into the bellcrank at stop bolt--not a good thing. My AME and I have been keeping an eye on this but thought it should last until Oct/ annual inspection, but it didn't. Leads to my post--my parts book calls for part # 0433113. Does anyone know a supplier for this, or is there a repair that can be done to eliminate the need to remove the rudder? As all of us do, I will not comprimise safety so if the best fix is to replace , so be it. Thanks from one of your Northern neighbours( Canadian spelling EH!), Pat Murdock

[doug8082a]

You'll likely have to remove the rudder to do any real maintenance here. The rudder bellcrank is a fairly common part and is available from Cessnaparts.com, Aircraft Spruce, Univair, etc. Going price seems to be around $240.00 USD. You may want to replace this anyway, since the pivot hole tends to get worn oversized from years of use.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

I've seen repairs done to the bell crank which usually involve squeezing the bellcrank back together to its original shape. They usually get bent from slamming the stop caused by high winds. Then wraping a aluminum strip around the front like a C clamp where the stop would hit. The reinforcing aluminum strip is riveted top and bottom. Only your mechanic and you would have to determine how legitimate this repair is.

Whether your repair or replace you'll need to remove the rudder. I choose replaced the one I damaged in high winds.

[GAHorn]

I agree with both Bruce and Doug. Other aircraft taxying nearby, helicopters, and other wind gusts will damage your rudder bellcrank because it's free to blow.
Meanwhile fashion a rudder gust-lock out of 1/4" poly rope and a fid. (Fid's can be found at marine suppliers. They are a short soda-straw device with pointed end. Slip braided poly rope into it and make a loop by using it as a sewing needle to insert the rope back into itself. It will hold like a Chinese finger-puzzle. (Get a sailor to show you how.) Use that loop as a "bra" on your rudder nav light fixture. Install a metal bungee-cord type hook on the other end and hook it into the open end of the left horizontal stab's leading edge. (The elevator being locked in the up position by the seat belts will expose this open end for you. This rudder gust-lock will run beneath the horiz. stab. and up-locked elevator.) The other side of the "bra" should have another equal-length of poly rope inserted into it with the fid. Make the other side extra long so it can slip through another bungee hook for the right side, to be hooked into the right stab's open end. The extra length of the right side can then be inserted with the fid for a short 6" length and then allowed to exit again leaving a "tab", making approximately a 4-foot loop in the right side with the hook in it's middle. IN other words, the right side will be adjustable, and the right hook will be in the middle of a long loop with the adjustable finger-puzzle near the bra.
By hooking first the left side, then the right side, then slipping the bra onto the nav light, and a pull or tug on the finger puzzle tag just to the right of the nav light will tighten up the rudder gust-lock.
I'll try to post pics of this on my airplane. (Or I'll make you one for $10 if this description is too much. PM or email me with your name, mailing address.)
In any case, DO NOT install a gust-lock on the top of the rudder to lock it to the vert. stab. It will bend your upper rib in your rudder.

[PatM]

Thanks for the quick responses . My AME called to tell me my price up here is @$410.Can. for the bellcrank. By the time I do the $US. conversion to $ Can. and taxes, import /customs it'll be close. I do have a gust lock on rudder, but it does allow for a bit of give, so as to not make rudder rigid without any movement. I have read your description on here before and it sounds like it is a prefered way to go--think I'll try it. At any rate, rudder has to come off and while off check for any other hidden concerns--do it right the first time.
Again, thanks for the help, I'll keep you updated, Pat