Parting out old engine?

[CBogle]

Dear fellow members:

I found another C145-2 for my plane (see "Need New Engine" thread) so I thought I'd start another quiry as to how best to recoup some costs from my C145-2 with the hole in the case. The engine is 2293 TT, 1250 SMOH, 600 STOH. I have no idea if the crank was ground at the major overhaul.

The only damage to the engine is the hole in the case. It appears no metal went into the engine and even the cylinder that came lose as a result of whatever problem caused the lug to shear and break the case has no apparent damage.

So, what are some ideas about the easiest and least expensive way to go about recouping some money by parting out this engine? Should I disassemble it and send the major parts such as the crankshaft to someone like Aircraft Specialty to see if these parts can be yellow tagged? I'm being told that a yellow tagged 8 bolt crank can fetch anwhere between $2,500 and $3,500, assuming someone needs it. Should I keep my old oil pan as I've heard those are hard to find and corrode, or, are they usually repairable?

Basically, I'm looking for thoughts on what parts from my old engine I should keep because they are relatively rare and likely to be needed in the future, and what parts I should try to sell due to their relatively high value (if they are serviceable) and I will be unlikely to need them?

Or, should I just keep the entire engine as it is identical to the new one I've purchased and just canibalize parts off of it as needed in the future. If I go this option, should I disassemble the engine and clean and oil all the parts, and store them where they won't rust, or, should I just leave the engine in-tact?

Thanks,

Curt

[mit]

I'm never in a hurry to get ride of parts. They may come in very handy later!

[Bill Hart]

I'm never in a hurry to get ride of parts. They may come in very handy later!

Those were my thoght as well oil pans and rear cases can be hard to find.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

I think at my leisure I'd dissassemple clean and oil all the parts. There are two types of sumps and accessory cases. 3 hole and 5 hole. Your new engine might have a different style that your old. Cont the bolts that hold the accessory case to the sump to see what you have. If different they would only be interchangeable on your engine as a set.

Your crank will be worth more with the inspection and yellow tag and in fact might not sell without it. With it you now what you have it you keep it otherwise you will never know. I'd get it done when you find the cash.

If you dissassemble the engine keep all the part inventoried as to where they came from i.e. piston and cylinder #.

You've already hit the big ticket items in the engine, the crank, sump and accessory case. so maybe you can recoup $3500. Of course your case is probably junk but I'd check that as was suggested before. The cylinders have a little value but probably more to you than someone else.

Personally I'd keep everything but that's me. You never know when you might find a good case and then you have nearly a whole core engine to sell.

[CBogle]

George:

The serial number on my current engine ends with a D-2-2 and on the "new" engine that I'm purchasing with a D-1-2. Do you know the significance of this difference and will I have a problem using my old accessories, specifically, alternator and oil filter adapter, on the "new" engine?

Also, am I understanding your response correctly in that if I ever needed to use the accessory case from my old engine on the "new" engine, I'd need to transfer the oil sump also as they are a match? If that is the case, I'd definately keep both.

Curt

[GAHorn]

Correct.... The "D" means it has had a dampened crank installed. The dash numbers refer to various accy and rebuild status that is likely not important to you. (A -1 might mean Bendix SLN21 mags. etc etc.) These are sometimes referred to as "spec" numbers. It is no longer the practice to include "spec" numbers in serial numbers of engines.

[wingnut]

Curt,
Your mechanic may have access ( a subcription) to Partsbase.com or ILS. These are places were companies list and search for parts. As an individual, this may be your best method of listing and selling parts. If your mechanic does not have this service available, I would be happy to list any parts that you get recertified. You keep the parts, I list and get inquiries and refer them to you.

[Metal Master]

Correct.... The "D" means it has had a dampened crank installed. The dash numbers refer to various accy and rebuild status that is likely not important to you. (A -1 might mean Bendix SLN21 mags. etc etc.) These are sometimes referred to as "spec" numbers. It is no longer the practice to include "spec" numbers in serial numbers of engines.

Actually when ordering a new or rebuilt engine from Continental you have to give them the spec number off of the old engine. And if it has been changed by subsequent installations that you are not aware of and the current spec has changed. You had best find out of figure out what the new Spec (configuration) (accessory installations) are or you will end up with what ever the current reflection (new Spec) of what ever the old spec was. But that is not a problem with C-145's and or 0300's because you can not order one from Continental to my knowledge.

Over haul shops do not change the spec number when installing different accessories and neither do most mechanics when changing from Slick to Bendix Mags for example.

So in our case the specification numbers are for the most part meaningless, But the D is important because of the Damped crank shaft. But it would not surprise to disassemble an engine with D on the Data plate and find that it did not have a damped crankshaft. Although I do not know if such a thing is possible.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Curt you can only use a 5 hole sump with a 5 hole accessory case and a 3 hole sump with a three hole accessory case. You can interchange sumps and accessory cases with the same amount of holes. If your new engine has a 5 hole system and your old engine has a 3 hole system (the 5 hole is newer) you would need both the sump and accessory case to be able to use either on the new engine. Does that explain it better or are you still confused.

[CBogle]

All - Thanks for the helpful input.

Bruce - I understand. Thanks for the clarification.

Curt