My question is now what??? Any ideas short of grinding, seem like it will take a lot of skill to carve off the SS screw heads against an aluminum back. I was wondering if it might help to heat the nuts with a large soldering iron?
New windshield installation
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
New windshield installation
I read with great interest the previous string on windshield replacement, and made the decision to give it ago. my existing is installed with screws and lock washes so I thought I was going to be in for an easy time. But I could not break loose 14 of the 44 in base flange. Seems a previous owner installed stainless screws and aluminum lock nuts.
My question is now what??? Any ideas short of grinding, seem like it will take a lot of skill to carve off the SS screw heads against an aluminum back. I was wondering if it might help to heat the nuts with a large soldering iron?
My question is now what??? Any ideas short of grinding, seem like it will take a lot of skill to carve off the SS screw heads against an aluminum back. I was wondering if it might help to heat the nuts with a large soldering iron?
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Robert G. White
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2002 7:40 am
Drill 'em
I had the same problem with old screws when I did it on my plane. 
Drill the heads out from the outside! 
If they turn, clip a needlenose visegrip on them. Use all new hardware! Also, be sure to use the felt around the edges of the windshield. I used ribbon black windshied dum-dum sealer on the bottom, purchased at NAPA airmotive supply. Put in about twice as much as you think right, you will be glad you did 
it will squeeze out to form a good seal. 
Then after a careful taping, a touch of silicone at the top. Use some thin aluminum "shoe horns help on the sides to get windshield going into in the slot. 
The new one was a Great Lakes Aero and I was quite satisfied.
Drill the heads out from the outside! If they turn, clip a needlenose visegrip on them. Use all new hardware! Also, be sure to use the felt around the edges of the windshield. I used ribbon black windshied dum-dum sealer on the bottom, purchased at NAPA airmotive supply. Put in about twice as much as you think right, you will be glad you did it will squeeze out to form a good seal. Then after a careful taping, a touch of silicone at the top. Use some thin aluminum "shoe horns help on the sides to get windshield going into in the slot. The new one was a Great Lakes Aero and I was quite satisfied. Bob White
Thanks for the input, I will put your comments to good use, my windshield came from Great Lakes also.
New question: It is not obvious to me how to get the very top two screws out of the out side strip where it is attached at the top of the windshield. I tried turning them (two right against each other) but they did not screw out? They appear to go into the truss across the top of the cabin which is covered with fabric and I assume it is a channel or box strut so you can not get to nuts on the bottem. Is this correct??
New question: It is not obvious to me how to get the very top two screws out of the out side strip where it is attached at the top of the windshield. I tried turning them (two right against each other) but they did not screw out? They appear to go into the truss across the top of the cabin which is covered with fabric and I assume it is a channel or box strut so you can not get to nuts on the bottem. Is this correct??
windshield install
We installed a new 3/16" windshiled from Great Lakes Aero several years ago. After 4 or 5 trial fits with adjustments, we put the felt in place and started pushing the windshield home. Things went well until we were about 3/4" away from a perfect fit. Imagine watching two 220+ lbs brutes trying to slap a windshield into place. We saved the day by wrapping a webbed belt with a ratchet around the back side of the entry steps, under the belly, and up over the middle of the windshield. With a low tension steady pressure from the ratchetted webbed belt, the windshield popped into place for a perfect fit. If you dont have a webbed belt, a thick rope twisted with a Spanish windlass will work just as well. It's the steady pressure that does the trick.
John
John
John
1949 C170A
TIC170A #4747
1949 C170A
TIC170A #4747
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dkalwishky
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 2:20 am
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Dave Clark
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2002 6:25 pm
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dkalwishky
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 2:20 am
I went for the center strip for two reasons. 1) I wanted to keep the original appearance of the A/C. 2) The "single piece" windshield is bubbled out a little more than the original and it distracts from the nice lines of the 170, in my opinion. However, the STCed windshield is the easier route to go if you just want the thicker material. I got my windshield from LP with the grey tint, it is very subtle and does not effect night flying.dkalwishky wrote:Why did you go with the center strip? I am looking at replacing my windshield and I had planned on going without the strip.
Also, is anyone flying around with a tinted windsheild? If so how does it affect night flying?
I would think it would make dusk and dawn flying a pain, but they don't seem to mind it. Then again, they don't have any shade from the wing to help out.