Hi All,
I'm looking for the correct dimensions (or good photos with a scale in the view) for the heat duct on 53 or later 170's.
It's PN 0713019-87 in Figure 55 is the duct.
I'm going to make the part on a press break.
Also, I need a few good photos of the Cabin Air Valve assembly PN 0713019-75 in the same figure.
As you may have guessed, I'm planning a heater upgrade
I have a new old stock heat duct.
I bought it a year ago for $120, but have decided not to do that project.
You can buy it if you want ($60 + shipping). Buy high, sell low
Or I will make some measurements for you.
Wow. New old stock!
I appreciate the offer but I plan to patch the defroster outlet and not use the side vents. It would be a real shame to cut up a nice part like that.
If you could pass the measurements, I'd greatly appreciate it tho!
Those "side vents" go a long way to making the cabin more comfortable by heating the ENTIRE cabin...not just your feet. (And by the way..the "defroster" vent of the later system...is still pretty useless. If you do that...you might wish to consider adding a "puffer fan" to the defrost. An avionics cooling fan might work well in that service.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
I'm finally going to attempt to put in the heat duct and new-er type valve on the firewall. I have all the parts, less the heat muff with the 3" outlet. I made a 2" to 3" adaptor that will fit the bill for now but not prevent me from upgrading later.
Has anyone installed the long duct across the firewall without removing the control column?
I havent tried yet but it doesnt really look possible since the duct is the same width as the plane.
Also, could someone give me a good reference for placement? I could guess at the middle of my existing heat valve hole but the actual location would be better. (bottom rivet line is x inches from blah)
The trip up to New Garden this weekend set the lower temperature limit for my wife (30 OAT) and I'd like to keep her happy longer (an unhappy wife makes for an unhappy life)
As you go through this project it would be great to see pictures of your progress as well as any "I ran into this" type of advice. Not that I'm advocating purchase but you could check the unmentionable auction site and see some of the heater parts as advertised, including a beat up firewall. It does give you an idea of placement - although I'm sure members who have the setup can give you exact dimensions.
Thanks Kyle. I do plan to take pictures along the way and make a write up of the joys and pains.
I actually did try buying some parts off of fleabay for this project and will NEVER do that again.
I bought a heater valve 'as removed' and figured I could clean it up and repair where needed...what the auction didnt say was that they used a 3/8ths drill bit to drill out the rivets I ended up buying another one from a salvage yard cuz the first one was in such bad shape and missing parts anyway
David,
If the heater duct is too long to install without removing the control column, think about cutting it in half in the middle and install the two pieces, then tape seal the center joint.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
Was looking at it again yesterday. I think cutting it in half is the only sane way to go. I won't know fore sure until I pull the side panels and try.
RTV for the portion cut? It wouldn't matter if it leaked there as the vent holes are along the same place.
What's an appropriate material to patch the firewall (square valve in a round hole)? I have some .040 aluminum but wasn't sure if the patch needed to be the same metal as the firewall itself.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
If not, what's a good source for galvalume? I only need a square foot or less.
Tempted to buy a wrecked firewall off fleabay for the metal.
I could use the rest of the firewall as a mock up for my motor conversion someday
David, if this were me I'd use a nice piece of aluminum, stainless steel or galvanized steel in the same thickness as the firewall. I'd use the one that was easier to acquire i.e. I had on hand or could purchase locally keeping cost in mind if I have to purchase it. Of course I would run my material choice past my IA.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
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